Saturday 9 April 2016

Good Luck From Beijing

As I write this blog, we are a few days into our taste of China tour and we are aboard a Bullet Train travelling from Beijing on our way to Xi'an our second destination.  Given I've not got a great deal to do for the next few hours I thought I'd give my assessment of the cars and driving conditions etc. that we encountered whilst in China's capital

Beijing Bullet Train
The fact I'm writing this on a vehicle travelling at 298 km/hour seems apt and entirely juxtaposed to some of the remarkable, if more basic, ways of getting around we've seen. 

Let's talk about the mainstream cars first. Modern Beijing has many good quality cars. Too many in fact which help to create the dense smog and traffic jams the city is known for. Although car ownership is a powerful symbol of success, the harm it's reaping is something they should seriously consider and try to remedy.

Most cars are Asian brands such as Mitsubishi, Kia, Honda and Nissan as you might expect. There are quite a few VWs, Fords and some Buicks too, which is a make we don't see that much in the UK. Most are familiar models but have different names.  A Nissan Micra for example is a 'March' and a VW Passat is a 'Magotan'.

There are some Chinese-made cars with names you can't read or have just a model number. In some cases, you can actually discern the car they've ripped off to make their version.
One exception here is the almost ubiquitous VW Santana used widely as a taxi in the major cities.I wondered what this is called in the west and it turned out there's no equivalent. They are in fact the outcome of a joint initiative between the Chinese government and Volkswagen to develop a VW badged car that is made and used exclusively in China.

When we first arrived and were picked up from Beijing airport our driver joined well-made motorways and roads that were congested but very orderly with discernible rules that everyone seemed to play by. I was therefore optimistic of easy, carefree travel. 

Unfortunately, once you leave the major roads the driving degenerates into something much more free form.  Other vehicles soon join the mix: buses, scooters, electric bikes, bizarre three-wheelers and strange micro-cars. All come together in a beeping, shouting mélange especially at major intersections where everyone, including pedestrians who causally wander into the traffic, all jockey for position. Admittedly, there is a vague respect for traffic lights but I think it's more a courtesy than a hard and fast legal thing. 

Electric Microcar
Let's talk about some of the weirder cars.  The ones you'll see everywhere are like three-wheeled 'filing cabinets'. Very basic vehicles, with unpainted slab-sided aluminium panels and based on a motorcycle drive train. Originally issued as vehicles for the disabled, the owners worked out with some modification they could also work as unofficial local taxis. Apparently, they're illegal but tolerated as they offer disadvantaged people a chance to earn some money. Suffice to say they are also death traps of the most efficient kind.  Utterly unstable, offering no protection in collisions and the only guarantee you get with them is high likelihood of serious injury or death.

Filing Cabinet?
We saw many versions of this conveyance, some more modern than others, but all a throwback to a China when these would have been the equivalent of the eastern European Trabant for example: a cheap to make people's car that doesn't really like people.

They do seem to like trikes here. Maybe the cost savings of no fourth wheel made for better use of state funds.  We have seen many three-wheelers of varying size and configuration: making deliveries, carrying people or doing building and agricultural works all with perfectly acceptable efficiency it appeared.

Bizarre Trike
Many of the smaller vehicles are electrically powered.  Indeed, some of the ubiquitous road users were on electric scooters and trikes.  I suspect this is encouraged because of the prodigious problems Beijing has with smog and, to be fair, they did look like a pretty good way to get around the urban environment.

Unfortunately, none of this is helping.  Beijing is gridlocked on most days, choking in its own emissions and as the country prospers and more cars are introduced it will get worse, much worse.

In fact, if you want to come to Beijing and enjoy the tourism my advice would be to do it soon.  A few years down the line, you'll be lucky to get to the Great Wall from down-town Beijing let alone get to climb up it. If you can see it that is.

Industrial Three-Wheeler
Yet here I am sitting on one of the most advanced and speediest passenger trains on the planet. The ride is smooth, it's running exactly to time and it's going really fast. It's just as good as anything a western economy can produce and much cheaper. This six-hour journey in the first class carriage of a super-advanced train costs just £97.00. Let's get Richard Branson on the phone and see what he's got to say about that.

China really is a land of contrasts and, despite some dubious aspects to their culture, their dodgy vehicles or their ropey driving; I hope you'll think about visiting sometime soon.

You can read more of our adventures in China at: